Kemeriahan kudapan di daerah Cikini tiada habis-habisnya.. dari yang edisi lawas dan penuh rasa nostalgia, sampai dengan yang melanglang buana nun jauh ke negeri Menara Eiffel, alias Perancis.
Banyak sudah resto Perancis bermunculan dan bertahan di Jakarta, mulai dari kelas elit macam Emilie atau Cassis, atau yang ‘homey’ bernuansa French countryside seperti Boka Buka di Cipete dan Java Bleu. Nah yang terakhir inilah yang memeriahkan dunia kulinari di Cikini. Setelah ditelaah lebih lanjut, ternyata ini adalah gerai mereka yang kedua di Jakarta. Yang pertama sudah dibuka di akhir 2007 di kawasan Fatmawati [Lihat tulisan dibawah ini]
Dari sang resto Manager, Michael, didapatkan konsep bahwa resto ini ingin mempertahankan keaslian menu lokal/klasik Perancis dalam nuansa country, dengan bahan/materi makanan pilihan.
Kami datang di awal waktu makan malam. Kapasitas pada saat ini adalah sekitar 30-50 tempat duduk. Dibagi menjadi area bebas rokok (di bagian dalam dan ber-AC tentunya), dan area merokok, dipisahkan oleh pintu orisinal dari bangunan Belanda yang berderet di ruko Cikini, dihias jendela/tralis khas rumah Belanda.
Menu makanan dibuat dalam format papan tulis beroda yang secara teratur diganti berkala. Bagi kaum vegan macam saya, menu yang ada cukup bervariasi dan para pramusaji atau sang Chef sendiri cukup tanggap apabila menu minta dibuatkan versi vegetarian. Kami memesan vegetarian mushroom macaroni cheese dan pork sausage untuk saya dan partnerku, ditambah 2 buah gelas Ballon Wine jenis Chardonnay dan Red. Sambil menunggu pesanan datang, Michael datang untuk memperkenalkan Chef Daisy.
Tidak lama berselang pesanan datang.. hmmm efisien dan relatif besar porsinya. Sajian vegetarian mushroom macaroni cheese porsinya cukup besar ditambah dengan semangkuk garden salad sebagai side dish. Agak surprise dengan penggunaan pene pasta sebagai bahan dasar, meskipun rasa kombinasi antara butter dan cream terasa pas sekali. Pork Sausage disajikan dengan mustard, semacam sauerkraut dan sejumput salad. Menurut partnerku sih rasanya enak, dan yang pasti, home-made.. bukan sosis jadi yang di beli di supermarket.
Rasa Ballon Wine menurut saya relatif standar. Saya lebih pas dengan Australian Chardonnay (blink, blink.. subyektif sekali sih!). Michael menjelaskan bahwa mereka mempunyai cukup variasi wine cellar dengan kisaran harga antara Rp300-500ribu per botol. Sedangkan untuk BYO (Bring Your Own) atau corkage pembukaan botol dikenakan biaya Rp80ribu per botol. Dengan porsi, rasa dan ambience yang ada, tagihan sebesar Rp247ribu terasa cukup pantas.
Kami meninggalkan Java Bleu dengan hati gembira dan perut kenyang, sambil berpapasan dengan para pengunjung yang mulai berdatangan untuk makan malam.
Java Bleu Restaurant
Jalan Cikini Raya 15
Jakarta 10330
Ph : 021 3193552
Sacre bleu!’ A French favorite reopens on Fatmawati
The Jakarta Post, 21 October 2007
Aman Khan, Jakarta
The latest whisper around town is that Java Bleu is back. Having closed its doors a few years ago so Chef Antoine Audran could focus on other ventures, the French-style restaurant is open once again due to popular demand.
Java Bleu serves food that is meant to be shared. It doesn’t offer fine dining with linen tablecloths, chandeliers and white-gloved waiters. Quite the opposite, in fact. Java Bleu presents simple cuisine inspired by the French countryside.
Chef Antoine has lived in Jakarta for many years. He kicked off his career at the Culinary School Ferrandi in Paris and worked his way up over the years. He worked in Michelin restaurants in France, as well as in England, Switzerland, Africa, the Middle East and Asia, before settling down in Indonesia.
Java Bleu is not for everybody — those on strict diets had better stay at home. Expect to be filled to the brim at this homey establishment.
There is no menu in sight at Java Bleu. Rather than wasting time agonizing over pages of choices, a simple chalkboard listing fewer than 10 items is on display.
It’s a hole-in-the-wall establishment typifying the sort of food I like — organic, natural ingredients, and no fussy cooking or presentation.
What you will appreciate about Java Bleu is the lack of pretension — the food actually looks like food and not a plate decoration. The food at Java Bleu will give you a source of hearty contentment.
There’s a delightful pan-seared foie gras — simple, pure and classical. The mushroom soup, with a clean yet powerful flavor, keeps the cream in the background, allowing the taste of the chanterelle to come through.
The quiche forestiere is cheesy, with mushrooms and a luxurious soft middle to enjoy. It’s a heavy dish with good flavor. The sausages are juicy and delicious. The lamb chops are served medium, flawless in their simplicity.
There’s even horse on the menu, which, while not to my taste, will be appreciated by those who enjoy the gamey aftertaste.
Chef Antoine explained to me the background to his cooking style and love of heritage.
“”In France, food is culture, a part of the national heritage that is revered and developed. We do not eat merely to feed our bellies,”” he says.
“”We do like to combine pleasure with it as well. It’s difficult to explain as it is deeply rooted in our basic education and way of life. Perhaps a genetic touch?””
Are we what we eat?
“”People tend to lose their personality and become blander nowadays. Food speaks for itself. Look how many people are staying alive on instant noodles and fast food. It shows people do not take an interest in the taste of food but merely adjust their food habits to their wallet contents as well as the time spent in cooking or eating.
“”One of the main issues I would like to raise is the loss of the family core as well as the gastronomic family culture. People are simply losing their basic food knowledge. Losing at the same time what remains of their valuable culinary heritage.””
Chef Antoine is in love with food and his attitude and commitment is reflected in the dishes he serves. Java Bleu remains an unchanging gem in a city of nondescript restaurants.
With your first bite at Java Bleu, you know that you are in for a comforting time. These are the true and tested flavors of the French countryside. The sedate surroundings of the place leave you to focus on the meal itself. Chef Antoine keeps things at an enjoyable and hearty pitch right to the very last bite.
The portions are enormous and it makes much more sense to come in a group. A minimum of five to six people would do the experience justice. Order a few appetizers and main courses and get stuck in! That’s the way to eat at Java Bleu. ***
* Average
** Good
*** Excellent
**** Extraordinary
Java Bleu
Kompleks Golden Plaza
Jalan Fatmawati No : 15
Blok E 24
Jakarta Selatan
Tel: (021) 7507902
Open Tuesday to Sunday
from 7 p.m. till 9 p.m.
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